Almora Through My Eyes

Almora is not just a hill town for me. It is a place of memories, history, culture, education, struggle and change. When I look at Almora today, I do not see only its crowded roads, expanding buildings and busy markets. I also see the Almora of my earlier years—a smaller, quieter town where people knew one another, worked hard, lived simply and were largely content with what they had.

This is Almora through my eyes: a personal journey from the

I remember to the Almora I see today. Almora's history goes back many centuries. Before the establishment of the present town, the area was associated with the Katyuri rulers. Later, the Chand dynasty established Almora as an important centre. The official district history records that Kalyan Chand founded Almora in 1568, and that the town was known as Rajapur during the Chand period.

The Katyuri dynasty has an important place in the history of Kumaon, while the Chand dynasty shaped Almora as an administrative, cultural and political centre. The Chand rulers also left a strong imprint on the town's temples and traditions. The Nanda Devi tradition of Almora, for example, has deep connections with the Chand rulers.

Gurkha and British Rule

The Gurkhas conquered Kumaon in 1790, beginning a period of Gurkha rule that lasted until 1815. This is sometimes confused with later dates, but the historical record places the end of Gurkha rule after the Anglo-Gorkha War in 1815. The Treaty of Sugauli was signed in 1816, and Almora subsequently became the headquarters of Kumaon under British administration.

The British developed Almora further as an administrative centre. Roads, institutions and administrative structures expanded, and Almora became an important centre for the Kumaon region.

But history is not only about rulers and governments. It is also about ordinary people.

The People Behind Almora's History

The people of Kumaon have traditionally been known for their hard work, self-reliance and ability to survive in difficult mountain conditions.

In earlier times, education was limited. Many people were illiterate or had very little formal schooling. Yet this did not mean that they lacked knowledge or wisdom. They possessed practical knowledge acquired through generations.

Small fields on mountain slopes had to be cultivated with great effort. Agriculture was largely dependent on human labour, animals and the seasons. Families kept cattle and other livestock and worked from morning until night.

Life was simple.

People did not have many material possessions, but many families had a strong sense of contentment, dignity and self-reliance.

This is something I believe today's generation can still learn from the Almora of the past.

From Small Fields to the Money-Order Economy

Mountain agriculture was never easy. Small and scattered holdings made farming labour-intensive, while modern irrigation and mechanisation were limited.

Many young men therefore went outside the hills in search of employment. They sent money home to their families.

This gradually created what came to be known as the “money-order economy” of the hills.

A son working in the Army, government service, cities or elsewhere would send money to his parents in the village. That money supported agriculture, education, household expenses and the construction or maintenance of homes.

In this way, migration was not simply a movement of people. It became part of the economic structure of mountain society.

Almora and the Freedom Movement

Almora and the wider Kumaon region also have an important history of political awareness and public participation.

People gradually became conscious of questions of rights, administration and freedom. Movements connected with national awakening and local social issues brought ordinary people into public life.

The freedom movement was therefore not limited to famous leaders. Teachers, students, workers, farmers and ordinary citizens also contributed in different ways.

This political awareness remains one of Almora's characteristics.

Almora I Remember: A Small Town

There was a time when Almora felt like a small town of perhaps 20,000–30,000 people to those of us who experienced it in an earlier period.

The town was spread across a beautiful ridge, with closely connected neighbourhoods and mohallas.

Names such as Molalla, Pandey Khola, Rajpur/Rajput, Champa Naula, Rani Dhara, Jakhandevi, Chausar, Dhungadhara, Pokharkhali, NTD, Dharanaula, Tilakpur, Thapaliya, Kholta, Joshikhola, Gangola Mohalla, Khatami Moh, Narsingh Bari and Patan Bazar are more than names on a map.

They represent memories.

Every locality had its own character, people and stories. The town was compact enough for people to know each other. Walking through Almora meant meeting familiar faces.

Today, expansion has changed that feeling.

Education Changed Almora

Education has probably been one of the greatest forces changing Almora and the surrounding villages.

Institutions such as Government Inter College, Ramsay Inter College, Almora Inter College, Government Girls Inter College, Adam's Girls School, Arya Kanya, the Degree College and ITI have contributed to generations of education.

Today, Soban Singh Jeena University adds another important dimension to higher education in the region. The Uttarakhand Higher Education Department records the development of SSJ University and its associated campuses.

The establishment of Soban Singh Jeena Government Institute of Medical Science and Research, Almora, has also added a major professional education and healthcare institution. The state Medical Education Department lists the Almora government medical college with 100 undergraduate seats.

Education has also changed the surrounding villages.

Places such as Sarsau, Paudhar, Khatyari, Lothia and Shail, once experienced primarily as nearby villages or rural settlements, are increasingly connected with the expanding urban area.

From Almora Town to a Growing Urban Centre

Almora today is very different from the town I remember.

Administrative offices, courts, development institutions, educational establishments and medical facilities have expanded. The town has become more densely populated, and people from surrounding villages have moved closer to Almora for education, employment and better access to services.

The growth of the urban area has brought opportunities, but it has also created pressure on roads, parking, housing, water, waste management and public spaces.

Almora was upgraded to Municipal Corporation status, and the process of reorganising its urban administration and wards has followed. Recent reporting records the creation of a 40-ward structure from the earlier 13-ward municipality.

The idea of further expansion has also been discussed for many years. Earlier proposals involved bringing neighbouring villages into the urban area, although such proposals have faced objections and changes over time.

Migration: The Other Side of Development

One of my concerns about Almora and the surrounding hills is migration.

Many families have moved from villages to towns because they want better education, employment, healthcare and other facilities for their children.

When young people leave, agriculture suffers.

Small fields that were once cultivated with great effort may remain unused. Houses become empty. Some villages acquire the painful description of “ghost villages.”

This is not simply a question of population statistics. It is a question of the future of mountain society.

The official district statistics show the continuing importance of rural areas: Almora district has a large rural population, while agriculture remains a major source of work among its main workers.

The challenge is therefore to create conditions in which people can choose to remain in the villages rather than leaving only because they have no alternative.

Yet Living Standards Have Improved

We should not look at the past only through rose-coloured glasses.

The earlier Almora had many difficulties.

Today there are electricity connections, better roads, television and satellite dishes, mobile phones, internet services, improved housing, government welfare schemes and greater access to education and healthcare.

Pension income also supports many households. Social security schemes and subsidised food provide additional support to eligible families.

So, while migration and unemployment are serious concerns, it would be unfair to say that everything has become worse.

In many respects, living standards have improved substantially.

The real question is how to combine modern facilities with the strengths of traditional mountain life.

Almora's Natural Environment

Almora's beauty is inseparable from its forests and mountain landscape.

Deodar, pine and tun and other Himalayan vegetation form part of the region's natural character. The surrounding forests, ridges and valleys are not merely scenery for tourists; they are part of the ecological foundation of mountain life.

Protecting this environment must therefore remain a priority.

Development is necessary, but development without environmental responsibility can destroy the very qualities that make Almora special.

Tourism: Almora's Great Opportunity

Almora is surrounded by places of enormous cultural, religious and natural importance.

Katarmal Sun Temple, Kasar Devi, Chitai, Binsar, Jageshwar, Kausani, Baijnath, Bageshwar, Ranikhet and Syahi Devi attract visitors for different reasons.

Katarmal is particularly significant for its ancient Sun Temple, while Jageshwar is renowned for its temple complex set among cedar forests. The official district tourism information also highlights Kasar Devi, Chitai, Nanda Devi and other nearby attractions.

Almora can also serve as a base for trekking, nature walks, village tourism and cultural tourism.

The challenge is to develop tourism without destroying the character of the place.

Festivals Keep the Old Almora Alive

Almora's festivals are another bridge between its past and present.

The Nanda Devi Festival is among the best-known cultural events of the town. The district administration records its association with the Chand rulers and describes it as a major September festival.

Dussehra celebrations, with their famous effigies, attract attention beyond the town. Ramleelas are also performed at several places during the Navratri season.

These festivals are not merely entertainment. They carry memory, tradition, community participation and local identity.

Markets and the Changing Face of Almora

Whenever I think of old Almora, I think of its markets.

Lala Bazaar, Paltan Bazaar, Tamta Bazaar, Chaughanpata and Mall Road have their own identities.

Lala Bazaar, with its old character and paved streets, is especially important to Almora's heritage. The district administration describes it as a market with a history of more than two centuries.

But today's markets are much busier.

Students hurry to school and colleges. Office workers move through the town. Vehicles compete for limited road space. Parking is a growing problem.

For senior citizens, even taking a peaceful walk can be difficult on busy roads.

This is one area where the modern Almora needs to think more seriously about walkability, pedestrian safety and accessible public spaces.

Electric rickshaws have also become part of the changing urban transport system, including routes serving the central commercial areas.

Health, Sports and Public Facilities

The growth of the medical college is an important development, although like many developing institutions, it has to continue strengthening its facilities, services and faculty.

Sports also have a place in Almora's identity. H.N.B. Stadium, Almora, provides an important sporting space, while GIC grounds and other open spaces have traditionally served students and athletes. The state Sports Department lists H.N.B. Bahuguna Sports Stadium, Almora, among Uttarakhand's stadiums.

For a hill town with a strong sporting tradition, maintaining sports grounds properly and providing adequate facilities should remain important.

Almora and the Road Ahead

Almora's future will depend greatly on connectivity.

Better roads, improved parking, safer pedestrian routes, efficient public transport and improved links with the plains are essential.

There have also been proposals and discussions concerning major road connectivity, tunnels, ISBT facilities and other infrastructure. Such projects need careful planning because the fragile Himalayan environment must be considered alongside economic development.

Connectivity should not simply bring more vehicles into Almora. It should make life easier for residents while protecting the character of the town.

What I See When I Look at Almora

When I look at Almora today, I see two Almoras.

One is the Almora of my memories:

small, quiet, hardworking, simple and self-reliant.

The other is today's Almora:

larger, more crowded, better connected, more educated, more prosperous in many ways, but also facing migration, traffic, environmental pressure and the challenge of preserving its identity.

I do not want the Almora of my memories to disappear.

At the same time, I do not want Almora to remain trapped in the past.

The answer, perhaps, lies somewhere between the two.

We need modern education without losing traditional wisdom; development without destroying nature; better roads without losing walkability; tourism without commercialising every corner; and economic opportunity without forcing every young person to leave the hills.

My Hope for Almora

My hope is that Almora will continue to grow—but grow thoughtfully.

I hope the surrounding villages can become economically active again. I hope young people can find meaningful employment closer to home. I hope agriculture can be revived where practical. I hope tourism creates opportunities for local families. I hope our forests remain green and our water sources remain alive.

And above all, I hope that the younger generation will understand that Almora is not simply a place where they were born or where their parents live. It is a heritage entrusted to them.

Final Thoughts

Almora through my eyes is a story of change.

From the Katyuri and Chand eras to Gurkha and British rule, from the freedom movement to independent India, from a small hill town to a growing urban centre—Almora has travelled a long road.

But the most important part of Almora's story has always been its people.

They worked hard on small fields. They raised families with limited resources. They migrated when necessary, sent money home and educated their children. They participated in social and political movements. They built institutions and preserved festivals and traditions.

That spirit of hard work, self-reliance and contentment is perhaps Almora's greatest inheritance.

As I look at Almora today, I do not merely ask, “How much has the town changed?”

I ask a more important question:

“As Almora moves into the future, what should we preserve from the Almora we once knew?”

That is the Almora I see through my eyes—and the Almora I hope future generations will continue to love.

— MY DIARY PAGES